Summer Updates: A Farewell Tour
Dedicated to my mom, because apparently weekly phone calls are not sufficient 😋
Hi all!
These last few months have been super busy, full of memorable trips and travels as I soaked in my last European summer (at least for a while). Here are the highlights: enjoy!
London & The Lakes District
I celebrated the end of a successful school year by meeting up with my family in the UK. We spent a few days in London hitting the main sites like Buckingham Palace, the River Thames, and several adorable London neighborhoods on a big red bus. We especially enjoyed the international community of London, and I was thrilled to eat a little foreign food. (This is generally quite hard to find in Spain!) Our favorite meals are pictured below, first from C&R Cafe, which specializes in Malaysian food. (I think the fam was a little skeptical when I lead them down a narrow Chinatown alley, but the food certainly did not disappoint!) Our Indian meal from Dishoom was also one of the best meals I've ever had!
The Lake District
We then took the train up to the Lakes District in Cumbia, northwest England, to a little town called Keswick (pronounced Kessick, as the locals rather firmly pointed out!) I absolutely love this area of the UK. The town itself was adorable and very quintessentially English. Cute cafes, lots of pubs, and darling little cottages lined each of Keswick's cobblestone streets, and many locals and tourists alike, along with a disproportionate amount of dogs, wandered along them. Everything seemed to close before 7, a culture shock that resulted in early bedtimes and peaceful evenings back at the cottage.
The hiking in this area has something for all skill levels, and for us, was only moderately difficult while still offering really lovely views over the lakes. However, be warned: the snake-like backroads near the trails can be a bit scary, plus the added challenge of driving on the left. And while the weather is the frustrating epitome of, "if you don't like it, wait 5 minutes", the frequent sprinkle of rain in this area leaves the landscape vividly green and gorgeous. (It will also have you stripping layers on and off every 10 minutes and fiercely fighting the wind.)
Pictured below:
Honister Pass Scenic Drive
Buttermere Loop
Aira Force Waterfall & Gowbarrow Park Loop (Ullswater Lake)
Catbells (Derwentwater Lake)
Castlerigg Stone Circle (like Stonehenge Jr.!)
Overall, a great place to visit and great people to do it with! I'm very grateful my family was able to come explore with me over the pond!
Italy
I took advantage of a cheap flight from London to Venice and decided to extend my trip to include Italy! It's a very popular destination for solo travellers and for good reason! It's relatively safe and well-connected, with no shortage of beautiful places to go or new foods to try. I visited Venice, Florence, and Rome, each of which has a distinct and special character.
First stop: Venice!
Venice is an absurd city, starting with the fact that it was built on top of thousands of wooden beams and platforms, a literal man-made island. The picturesque canals, bridges, and gondolas are absolutely picture-perfect. And while it is a very expensive city, you don't have to pay for for much unless you really want to shop or do an excursion. For me, simply eating typical Venetian cuisine and wandering around the beautiful streets was enough to fill 2 days!
Pictured below:
St. Mark's Basilica
St. Mark's Square
Rialto Bridge
Bridge of Sighs (This bridge connects the interrogation rooms of the Doge's Palace to the prison. This contributed to its nickname, since prisoners often caught their last glimpse of the outside world while crossing this bridge. There is also a myth that couples who kiss beneath the bridge will enjoy eternal love.)
the lovely canals of Venice
From Venice, I took a day trip to the nearby island of Burano. While still quite touristic, it's much quieter than the hustle and bustle of Venice's main island, and getting there is easy and affordable via waterbus. Its sister island, Murano, is famous for glass-blowing, and Burano is famous for homemade lace production. Both products and many more beautiful pieces can be found in Burano shops. But in my opinion, the most beautiful thing here is the island itself, with its bright colorful houses and lovely sea views. It looks like a smaller, brighter version of Venice.
Next stop: Florence!
Throughout my travels, I have found that all cultures have certain things that they hold sacred. In Spain, it could be family time or just down time in general, evidenced by siestas and weekly family lunches, not to mention the plethora of "holidays" seemingly invented for the sole purpose of a day off. In France, there is a reverence toward the French language, closely followed by wine and cheese. In Italy, a country of so many treasures, 2 things seem to be held above the rest: history and food. Every tour guide, plaque, waiter, and bartender seemed to share this view. Of course, Italy's rich history dates back to the iconic Roman Empire, and much of its ruins are well-preserved, even centuries later! In fact, Rome's subway system is so limited because the modern city is built on top of many ruins, and construction of new buildings and subway lines are often blocked when new ruins are discovered. For example, a first century stadium, Stadium Domitian, can be found 4.5 meters directly below Piazza Navona, one of the most beautiful public squares in Rome.
But Italy's rich history does not end there. There is a near-religious admiration of the great Renaissance artists like Michelangelo, da Vinci, and many, many others whose footprints are still very visible in cities like Florence. And while I don't know much about art, the master skill of these architects, sculptors, and artists of all kinds is undeniable, some works so powerful that it's hard to look away. Viewing famous works like the statue of David and the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore are fantastic experiences on their own, but they also tell a larger story of power dynamics between social classes, church leaders, and ruling families like the Medici, and their lasting impact on the city of Florence. For example, the bars around the windows of many older buildings were meant to protect wealthy families from enemies or intruders. Another example is the incredibly unique Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, whose design was fraught with artistic rivalries and tensions among the designers, allegedly driving Renaissance architecture towards peak success. Of course, there's also Michelangelo's David, a literal embodiment of perfection, a powerful protector over the city.
Pictured below are some highlights from my time in Florence:
Sunset at Pizzale Michelangelo
Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore
Arno River and Ponte Vecchio
Boboli Gardens
Sant'Ambrogio Market (comparatively few tourists here, amazing produce and antiques, patient vendors who still answered me when I spoke Spanish instead of Italian)
Galleria dell'accademia (Statue of David)
Last stop: Rome
When my last train from Florence ended up being a somewhat mental-breakdown-inducing experience, I was worried I wouldn't have the energy to handle a chaotic major city like Rome. But even in rather touristy places, the Italian lifestyle peeks through. It offers you a chance to breathe, to take a sip of wine, and savor each moment.
Pictured here:
Saint Angelo Castle
Campo de' Fiori (market)
Piazza Navona
The Pantheon
Trastevere neighborhood (great bars and restaurants here!)
Trevi Fountain (Throw in one coin over your left shoulder to revisit Rome, two to find a Italian lover, and three to move there permanently with said Italian. I promise I only threw one!)
Assorted churches (all churches in Rome are free to enter except for the Pantheon, a great hack because many of them are quite impressive and feature incredible frescos on the walls and ceilings.)
While in Rome, I stopped in the world's smallest country, Vatican City, to see St. Peter's Basilica, St. Peter's Square, the Vatican Museum, and the Sistine Chapel. Even though I am not Catholic, I was pleasantly surprised by how much I enjoyed my day there. There are exhibits featuring religious artefacts from Egypt, Africa, Asia, and the Americas, demonstrating the significance of spirituality across cultures. It also includes incredible paintings, frescos, and sculptures from artists like Raphael and Leonardo da Vinci. One of the coolest exhibits was the Contemporary Art Collection, an area featuring 20th-21st century art by artists like Vincent van Gogh and Salvador Dalà (my personal favorite). I enjoyed this exhibit a lot because it shows spirituality and humankind as we view them today, through a modern, curious lens. What's even more impressive to me is that humankind's interest in the supernatural, spiritual realm has been an ongoing curiosity since the early centuries A.D. and still continues today! But of course, nothing compares to the wonder and awe of the Sistine Chapel. It's the most incredible work of art I've ever seen; I think I sat there craning my neck upwards for almost 20 minutes.
Apparently the pope had invited over 100 famous comedians that same day, and I saw Conan O'Brien as I was heading to the airport!
The Colosseum and the Roman Forum, Rome's enormous park of ruins, was the heart of ancient Rome. The famous Colosseum was once used as the site of gladiatorial combat, animal hunts, and military exercises, again reflecting the significant role of power in society. The ruins are remarkably well-preserved, a true testament to the Italians' pride in their history. Within the forum, you can find Julius Caesar's burial site, temples to the Roman gods, the Curia Julia (senate house), and much more. My favorite part was the Temple of Vespa, Roman goddess of the hearth, where the Vestal Virgins, a group of religious women, would tend to an eternal flame. Women's role in history is so frequently erased, so it was cool to see the important role that these women had in such an iconic civilization.
Food
Like I said before, food is sacred in Italian culture. Not only is the food famously delicious, but the quality of the ingredients, especially of produce like tomatoes, is highly prioritized. Very rarely will you see out-of-season fruit in a supermarket, since the artificial processes and chemicals needed to produce and preserve them would subtract from the flavor, a sin in Italian gastronomy. I had amazing experiences at markets like the Central Market and Saint Ambrogio Market in Florence, as well as the Campo de' Fiore Market in Rome. There were so many delicious fruits and vegetables, and it was clear that the vendors took pride in what they were selling. Pictured below are some of my best meals in Italy, from left to right:
Caprese salad and steak Florentine from a hole-in-the wall restaurant in Florence recommended by my FreeTour guide. I'm not a steak person by any means, but both these dishes were fresh and phenomenal!
Margherita pizza - I don't know if I'll ever be able to eat American pizza again!
Savory crepe (I got this from a side street in Venice, where the server warned me to be careful of seagulls stealing it!)
An emotional support biscotti after my train fiasco
Seafood pasta in Burano and Venice
The BEST cannolo from Mercato Sant'Ambrogio
Varied cicchetti, bar snacks from northern Italy, are served in typical Venetian bars and accompanied by a glass of wine! They typically include small sandwiches, olives, meat, or seafood.
Aperol Spritz, now found at almost any bar worldwide, originated in Venice!
A typical Italian breakfast - cappucino + cannolo (Coffee is another thing the Italians love, and have lots of rules for. For example, an espresso after a heavy meal is fine, but a cappuccino is not because the milk apparently slows digestion.)
Pasta amatriciana, a Roman pasta with red sauce and my new favorite meal
Tiramisu
Meat pizza
Cacio e pepe (cheese and black pepper, weirdly good considering how simple it is!)
Arancini, Italian fried risotto that is stuffed and fried, one with mozzarella and tomato and the other with mozzarella and pumpkin flower.
Assorted desserts and gelatos!
São Miguel, Azores
The Azores Islands, known as "the Hawaii of Europe", technically belong to Portugal, but are actually situated halfway between the U.S. and Europe. São Miguel is one of those islands, and I spent a few days there enjoying this slice of paradise. We drove to Porto on the mainland and enjoyed the evening there. The vibe of this city is laid-back and fun, with lots of bars and restaurants. That's where I tried Francesinha (the sandwich pictured below) for the first time. While recipes differ, this legendary sandwich usually includes meat, cheese, and sausage, and the sauce is normally beer and tomato based. From there, we flew to Ponta Delgada, the capital city. The town itself is certainly not the main attraction, but it's a good base for exploring the island. The buildings and streets constructed from volcanic rock are especially pretty.
We also visited an Azorian pineapple plantation. Pineapples are a major symbol of the island not only for their great taste, but also for their historical role. It was imported from Brazil at a time when the island was experiencing harsh conditions and food shortages. Farmers learned to replicate the growth process in greenhouses, using smoke to induce flowering. Many pineapples were exported to Europe and boosted the local economy before tourism on the islands became popular. However, they are very different from the large, tart ones I eat back home. They are very small and very sweet, great for snacks, jams, and ice cream!
We also visited a tea plantation, since Azores is the only place in Europe where tea grows naturally, although some other countries have started experimenting in recent years. Between the tea, pineapples, and seafood, I was very well-fed in Azores!
Sete Cidades scenic drive, with lots of small hikes, hydrangeas, and gorgeous overlooks
Black sand beaches and some dangerous wildlife
Ponta Arnel Viewpoint
Lago (Lake) do Fogo
Natural hot springs for swimming (great for a swim, but be careful because some of them are hot enough to boil!)
We swam in a few hot springs on other parts of the island, but you definitely wouldn't find a swim in Furnas very relaxing, considering some of them are heat up to 212 degrees Fahrenheit and smell very strongly of sulphur. The water in this area is naturally carbonated due to volcanic activity beneath the surface. It's technically safe to drink, but not very tasty. While in this area, you must try Cozida de Furnas, a meat and vegetable stew that is cooked by the volcanic steam and geothermal heat beneath the Earth's surface. They are lowered into holes in the ground and left there for 6-8 hours or more. We ordered one Cozida de Furnas and some hard boiled eggs prepared the same way. I was a little nervous when they arrived at the table, but it was actually very good and had a subtle smoky flavor that you probably can't get from a stovetop.
Camino Primitivo
Last summer, I walked the Camino Francés, a 4-week route of the Camino de Santiago that starts in France and finishes in Santiago de Compostela. This is considered by many to be the "main" route, especially if you are doing it for religious reasons or want a longer journey. However, there are multiple routes you can take to Santiago, one of which starts in my home city of Oviedo, Asturias. This route is called the Camino Primitivo, and it is the original pilgrimage route, or at least the earliest-known path. I liked the idea of walking straight from my home and wanted to take advantage of my time in this city. More importantly, I wanted to take advantage of time with my sister while she was in Europe. It was a very special experience to complete together, especially since we have spent much of the last 2 years apart.
Compared to the Francés, the Primitivo is much more of a hike, crossing over mountains and rural areas more so than towns or cities. There are fewer people on this route, and definitely fewer facilities, cafés, grocery stores, and lodgings. It is generally considered to be the most challenging of the Camino routes. Lucky for us, 2 weeks of unplugged hiking was exactly what we wanted!
I have so many special memories from this trip, from watching Liv teach some cows the Hot To Go! dance to wading across ankle-deep mud. We walked above the clouds, ate soups prepared by Asturian grandmas, and charmed our way into a few private rooms. I'm so grateful I was able to do this trek with Olivia and share so many hilarious moments together.
Asturias
A few final adventures before leaving Asturias:
Perfecting my sidra pour at a "fiesta del prao", big parties held in the summer in fields or towns
Canyoning down the Sella River, which included rappels, jumps, and a lot of nervous yelping
Cudillero, a beautiful seaside village
Asturian beaches
Picos de Europa
The mountains in Asturias have been the most magical part of my time there. I squeezed in 2 more weekend trips this past summer to visit more of the refugios, huts hidden away for overnight hikers. Each one serves a hearty dinner with the best views. Cabaña Veronica, owned and operated privately by a man who very obviously never leaves the mountains, is recycled from an old anti-aircraft battery that was scrapped from a U.S. plane in Bilbao. While slightly claustrophobic, its iron walls kept the raging winds out pretty effectively. From there we trekked to Collado Jermoso, which is my favorite refugio for its size and its awesome views. (Unfortunately we couldn't see the views until the next morning due to the super dense fog.) Later we hit Uriellu and Jou de Cabrones, which is the least accessible refugio in Picos. But it was definitely worth it since we saw a shooting start that night!
USA
I took my boyfriend to the great state of Kentucky to see my home country. He is from Asturias, and he has done a great job playing tour guide in the past year. So I tried to do the same for him with trips to Mammoth Cave, Natural Bridges, Rabbit Hash, Jungle Jim's, and a Reds game. We also got to stop in Boston and see Kelly and Dawn, who I miss so much! But I think if you asked Mario, he would say his favorite part of America fried chicken and bacon.
The End of a Chapter...
People often ask me if I feel homesick. I won't lie to you; I sometimes crave a proper salad that isn't covered in olive oil and a medium-rare cheeseburger. But I can't say that I feel homesick exactly because in many ways, Spain has felt like home to me. It's the place where I learned how to enjoy my own company, how to make good friends, and how to avoid bad ones. I rented my first apartment, and my second, paid my first phone bill, fought with my first landlord. (He won, by the way.) This is the country where I found my spirituality and healing on the Camino de Santiago. This is the country where I enjoyed so many adventures, swam in the most gorgeous beaches and climbed the most phenomenal mountains, met so many beautiful and interesting people, and where I started dating my best friend. I'm not the same person now that I was when I first arrived in Bilbao 2 years ago, and I know that a rather large piece of my heart will always belong to Spain.
...The Beginning of the Next
I'm writing to you now from a new location - Thailand! I recently accepted a Fulbright grant to teach English in Lamphun, a province about 45 minutes from Chiang Mai. It has been a struggle to adapt to yet another culture and language-and a tonal language at that! But it has been incredible so far! I will be here until September 2025, so subscribe with your email below if you want to read more about my time here in Southeast Asia.
Cheers to a great summer and wishing all who read an even better fall!
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