4 Adventures: Exploring Thailand and Singapore
A combination of holiday weekends and midterm exams meant a lot of time off of school in July and August! I planned these trips to enjoy my finals months here, but actually ended up learning a lot too. From the historical ruins of Sukhothai to traditional Buddhist teachings and even a few Malay words, I am so grateful for the opportunity to understand southeast Asia better.
Sukhothai
For my first long weekend, I took a 5-hour bus ride down to Sukhothai, a central province famous for Sukhothai Historical Park, a collection of partially restored ruins near the province capital. The park is so big that it is broken up into 5 different zones: North, South, East, West, and Central. The ruins are remnants of the 13th and 14th century Sukhothai Kingdom, and some Khmer structures are even older than that! The park spans about 5 km, so I rented a bicycle in order to see as much as possible, starting with the massive Buddha at Wat Si Chum, the elephant pagoda at Wat Chang Lom, and the iconic royal sanctuary at Wat Mahathat. It took about 2 days, but I saw nearly everything. Sukhothai is a neat and tidy city and with 2 lakeside night markets for extra scenic dinners, one of which is right inside the historical park and is perfect for catching the sunset. While there, I had to try the famous Sukhothai noodles, a traditional rice noodle dish that is slightly sweetened with palm sugar, balancing out an otherwise spicy and savory meal.
A Buddhist Meditation Retreat
Approximately 94% of Thais are Theravada Buddhists, the branch of Buddhism that most closely follows the original teachings of the Buddha. Practitioners often visit temples, which are not only religious sites, but also centers of community gathering and iconic symbols of Thai culture. Living here, I've had ample opportunities to meditate, make merit, and observe the way the faith and the culture intertwine and influence each other.
But I wanted to learn more, so I spent 4 days at PaPae Meditation Retreat, a beautiful center set in the thick, natural forests of Mae Taeng District. Totally isolated from the outside world and completed surrounded by nature, PaPae cultivates an environment where you can truly focus and practice meditation without distractions. They ask guests to follow the 8 precepts of Buddhism as the monks do, meant to create even more distance from the material world. First, they gave us a white set of clothes that were meant to equalize and stave off vanity, but really they just made us all look like we were in a cult. Other rules prohibited all makeup and cosmetics, "luxurious" chairs or beds, singing, dancing, music, all entertainment, and eating after midday. The monks and staff were pretty flexible, so if you wanted to sneak an afternoon snack or read a book, they let it go as long as you weren't bothering the people around you. But I turned off my phone and went completely silent for the duration of the retreat. I thought it would be hard, but I actually felt relieved. For the first time in months, I didn't have to be "on". I didn't have to put on a smile for the students, or feign composure when my classroom erupted into chaos, or use up all my energy fighting the ever-present language barrier. I could just observe, think, or not think. And it felt so nice, like exhaling after holding your breath for a long time.
I learned a lot about Buddhism from the monks, who hosted educational sessions and taught traditional meditation techniques. It gave me foundational tools to access a new channel of spirituality, and enhanced my understanding of Thai faith and culture.
Chiang Dao
A favorite spot among nature-loving northern Thais is Chiang Dao, a stunning mountain district. Visiting in the rainy season meant very few tourists, cool temperatures, and a constant curtain of mist. The vibe was perfect, made even more so by my hosts at Ashi Guesthouse. The owner and her mother spoke great English, so I was able to chat with them. The mother, a former teacher from Bangkok, retired to the mountains and now spends her days guiding tourists around the area. She drove me around Chiang Dao to a breathtaking viewpoint, natural hot springs, Mon Ching Temple, Pha Plong Temple, and Sri Sangwan Waterfall. I also visited Chiang Dao Cave Temple and followed 3 dogs on a 13 km hike.
Singapore
Singapore celebrated its 60th birthday on August 9, and I was lucky enough to be there to witness all the festivities, complete with parades, performances, and fireworks. There is a lot of national pride in this young country, which has already become a global financial hub and multicultural epicenter of southeast Asia. Despite being a massive and busy city, it's incredibly safe, clean, and convenient. Since English is one of its 4 official languages, I was able to communicate better with the local people and understand the city more deeply.
Downtown
Before I even left the airport, I was already impressed as I passed Rain Vortex, the world's tallest indoor waterfall. I spent my first morning in the Downtown Core, catching glimpses of the iconic Merlion Statue, Fullerton Hotel, Victoria Theatre, and Marina Bay Sands. Inside the iconic 3-tower hotel is a casino, but with a catch. Much of the profits go toward arts and culture initiatives, including the free English and Malay concerts I saw at the Esplanade across the river. Garden Rhapsody, another free event, is a light and sound show hosted in the Supertrees of Gardens by the Bay. In celebration of Singapore's birthday, the theme was "Songs of Singapore", and included an additional installation mimicking the Aurora Borealis. In the afternoon, I walked around Boat Quay and Robertson Quay on the Singapore River and soaked in the city's beating heart.
Gardens By the Bay
Gardens By the Bay, Singapore's famed urban park, was hands-down my favorite spot. Lots of cities boast beautiful parks and gardens, but only Singapore has the largest glass greenhouse in the world, the world's second tallest indoor waterfall, and 1.5 million plants from 6 continents. Every detail is intentionally and beautifully designed to immerse visitors in the wonders of the natural world. While I was there, there was a Jurassic Park exhibit in the Cloud Forest and an Orchid Extravaganza in the Flower Dome. From the Supertree Skywalk, you can look out over the entire city. Needless to say, this is not your ordinary flower garden. GBTB aims to model sustainable development and conservation while promoting educational and enriching programs for Singaporeans and visitors.
Chinatown
Singapore's diversity comes from a long history of migration and colonization, with Chinese, Indian, Malay, and Eurasian communities making up the bulk of the population. The National Museum of Singapore tells this story, starting as the home of the seafaring Orang Laut people, to a regional trade hub, to a British colony, then a Japanese occupation, and a Malaysian state, until its independence in 1965. Over time, immigrants throughout Asia came to Singapore to work, eventually settling there and establishing Singapore as the multicultural heart of Asia. With so many distinct cultures, religions, and races, tolerance and acceptance amongst communities was and is crucial, enforced both by social norms and strict laws prohibiting discrimination or insult based on race or religion.
The Chinese community of Singapore established Chinatown in the 19th century. During British and Japanese rule, residents faced a number of hardships, including overcrowding, poor sanitation, poverty, and even the targeted purge of 25,000-50,000 Chinese Singaporeans during the Sook Ching Massacre, a violent elimination of "Chinese sympathizers" by the Japanese occupation. After gaining independence, Chinatown's resilience resulted in rapid development and improvements while still maintaining many historical shophouses and temples. It's a perfect neighborhood to walk around, admire the charming homes, and eat phenomenal Chinese food. I visited notable spots like the Buddha Tooth Relic Temple, Sri Mariamman Hindu Temple, Thian Hock Keng Temple, Maxwell Food Centre, Smith Street, Sago Lane, and Ann Siang Hill.
Kampong Glam
Another notable neighborhood, Kampong Glam, is a trendy area historically settled by Malay and Arab families. Kampong is the Malay word for village and Glam probably comes from the gelam tree, which were common in the area. The Sultan Mosque is its most famous landmark, surrounded by boutique shops and aesthetic cafes.
Legendary Singaporean Food
The food in Singapore is unmatched. With authentic dishes from China, India, Indonesia, and a few uniquely Singaporean specialties, it's hard to have a bad meal. Pictured below in order:
traditional Singapore ice cream sandwich (block of ice cream between wafers or soft bread
Hainanese chicken rice - simple yet incredible
Chili crab - a Singaporean delicacy, mud crab cooked in a rich, tomato-based sauce
"The South Indian Set Meal" from a hole in the wall diner in Little India
Singapore Sling - The legend is that a bartender at the Raffles Hotel created this pink drink so that women could enjoy an alcoholic beverage disguised as juice. In colonial times, public consumption of alcohol by women was not considered socially acceptable.
Carrot cake - Despite the name, there are no carrots in this dish; just steamed radish fried with soy sauce. Bad translation, great dish.
Chendol - a cold dessert with coconut milk, shaved ice, and jelly noodles
Chinese fishball noodles and pan-fried pork buns from Lau Pa Sat, one of many hawker centers throughout the city
"Combo of Traditional Local Snacks" from Nanyang Coffee in Chinatown
As I write this, I am filled with gratitude for the opportunity to be here, not only to travel and and witness the remarkable history and culture of southeast Asia, but also to come to work each day and teach some incredibly special students. The next post I create will be a goodbye post, with just 6 weeks left till the end of my contract!
Thanks for reading!
ลาก่อน,
Julia
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