Spring Highlights: From the Sand to the Snow
This is a long one. I'll just jump right in :)
Morocco
I had the absolute gift and pleasure of spending a week in the beautiful country of Morocco over spring break. This country is truly an underrated treasure, from bustling cities to majestic deserts to hidden surf spots. It has a rich, proud culture that is visible from every angle: the food, the music, and especially the people. It was my first time in Africa as well as my first time in an Islamic country, and I honestly didn't know what to expect, especially since I don't exactly blend in.
So imagine my surprise when, in a country that's so starkly different from my own, I found myself feeling not only welcomed but included. There's probably a few factors that play into this; for example, I visited mostly touristy places that are accustomed to lots of foreigners. But kindness and hospitality are also baked into the culture. Moroccans are known for being very friendly and welcoming, and reputation I can confirm is well-earned. From the hostel employees who offered us mint tea even after their shift was over, to the artisan in the medina who helped us barter against himself, to the leathersmith who sat us down to show us pictures of his cats, to the tour guides who shared their fresh dates with us as they broke their Ramadan fast, we were shown immense generosity across the board. And even those that weren't out-of-the-way generous, still did the immense favor of ignoring me, rather than staring or making me feel uncomfortable.
I can't pretend to read their minds, but I imagine that their kind nature comes from their pride and respect for their religion and culture, a reverence so strong that that they are often eager to share it with outsiders. As a foreigner, this makes for an ideal environment in which to travel. After all, how can you learn about a culture if nobody is willing to teach you? Luckily, travelers to this gem of a country won't likely encounter this problem.
Rabat
Morocco's capital of Rabat proved to be a surprising first stop. We only chose to land there because it was much cheaper than flying into Marrakech, where we would begin our tour. But this pitstop of convenience turned out to be the ideal introduction to Morocco. Even though it's the capital, Rabat is significantly smaller and more relaxed than Marrakech. In just a brief visit, I explored a medieval seaside fortress over the Atlantic Ocean, an enchanting kasbah of twisting alleyways in between charming painted houses, and a medina with just enough bustle to be interesting, but not enough to overwhelm on Day 1.
Marrakech
Marrakech, a much larger city, is where I spent the bulk of my trip. It's very popular with tourists, and to answer the most frequently asked question: I did feel pretty safe, comparable to any large European city, where I always practice a normal amount of caution. I was further comforted by the fact that majority of the tourists here were Spanish. In fact, I had better luck communicating with locals in Spanish than in English! There is no shortage of beautiful places to visit, and I spent much of my time here simply "getting lost" in the city and stumbling upon its many treasures. I also did a great Free Tour here, where I learned more about Moroccan culture, its loyal connection to Islam, and the rich history of the city.
Pictured below are a few such treasures: In the first picture, we are seated at a fountain in front of the Kutubiyya Mosque. From this mosque, and many others throughout the region, we could hear the "call to prayer" 5 times a day. The call to prayer is read live, not recorded, and broadcasted loudly so it can be heard throughout the city, inviting its inhabitants to pause their lives for a moment and pray. Of course, the whole city didn't pause all at once, but I did witness a few practitioners on their knees facing Mecca in prayer, often as I passed mosques on the street, once even in a parking lot. In the second picture, the tower is also visible, with a courtyard dotted by rows of small brick squares. Why? So that non-Muslim visitors can get an idea of what the inside must look like, each square representing where a column would be placed, and prayer mats spread amongst them.
As I mentioned before, Morocco has a great reverence for the practice of their Islamic faith, whereas Catholic, European countries like Spain and Italy, also culturally religious, have greater reverence for the overall impact of religion on their art, architecture, and history. You can visit most churches in Spain (for a fee, of course), but in Morocco, non-Muslims are not permitted to enter mosques, as they are considered holy places, rather than an architectural or touristic attractions. It was very interesting to see religion perceived and practiced in a totally distinct way.
Also seen below is the Almoravid Koubba, the domed building in the third picture and the oldest building in Marrakech. It was built in the 12th century and used as a space for ablutions, the washing of oneself prior to prayer. You'll also see the symbol of a decorated golden hand, a symbol of protection. In Morocco it's known as the "Hand of Fatima" but similar amulets can be found in Judaism, Buddhism, and Hinduism. Directly below it, take a look at the gorgeous wooden doors, which are very typical of Morocco. Some have intricate designs, uniquely-shaped keyholes, and dizzying geometric patterns. Our tour guide spent an entire stop explaining their artistic and symbolic significance. For example, some doors have 2 knockers, one for friends and neighbors, and the other for strangers who might need some help. The 2 knockers also might differentiate the guest's gender. The knockers have distinct sounds, so that you know who is coming before you answer the door. The number of nails, now mostly decorative, also symbolized protection. Some doors are quite small, forcing the person entering to bow their head to show respect and humility to their hosts.
There are a few photos below of signs showing the various languages of Morocco. What languages are those, you ask? Turns out it's a little complicated. Given that Morocco was a French protectorate until 1956, you'll often see French signs or hear it spoken, but usually only with tourists. Due to the huge number of tourists, some Moroccans speak very good Spanish and occasionally English. Officially, the languages of Morocco are Arabic and Amazigh, also called Berber. Morocco's history with the Arab Empire and Islam begins in the 7th century, thus the use of Arabic language. Amazigh is the indigenous language and culture of northern Africa, pre-dating the Arabic rule and surviving centuries of invasion and colonization. The word itself means "free people". However, the term "Berber", which refers to the same language, actually comes from the Greek word "barbaros", meaning barbarian. This term was popularized during the era of French control and demonstrates a derogatory view from the invading Europeans. However, Amazigh culture is a unique and irreplaceable piece of Moroccan culture. Apart from their language, they are known for their traditional architecture, music, and craftsmanship, especially of textiles and jewelry.
Bahia Palace
The Bahia Palace was perhaps my favorite architectural wonder in Marrakech. It has intricate Arabic-style carvings, incredibly decorated ceilings, colorful tilework, and of course, the famously aesthetic doors. The main courtyard painted blue and white, representing the coexistence of both Jewish and Islamic communities in Marrakech. Si Moussa, the Vizier of Morocco, began construction on the Palace in the late 1800s. The legend goes that he built it for his wife to serve as their private residence, but it also served as a symbol of great wealth and power. Unfortunately, he died before its completion and his son, Ba Ahmed, expanded and finished the palace, using it as both a private home and administrative headquarters. Now, it is an artistic and architectural treasure in the heart of Marrakech.
Le Jardin Secret
Next stop: the Secret Garden! A short stop in the middle of the medina showcases an elegant palace and garden complex, which includes a wide variety of trees and flowers, both native to Morocco and around the world. It's a lovely escape from the barely-controlled chaos of Marrakech.
Ben Youssef Madrasa
Take a close look at the first picture, the close up of the floral-inspired tile. If you notice anything odd about it, you are very observant, and if you don't, you are like me. Congratulations!
You'll notice that the blue circle isn't completely blue. There is an orange tile at the top. But the mistake in this tilework isn't a mistake at all. In Islamic architecture, it is common to commit at least one intentional error because only God can be perfect. This is another great example of Morocco's religious reverence as well as the humility they derive from it, acknowledging the flaw of human beings.
But what is perfect, at least in my opinion, is the building itself, It is a prime example of Islamic architecture, a true work of art. In addition to the beautiful tilework, there is exceptionally carved wood and sculpted plaster. However, these ornate plaster carvings aren't just decoration; they include Arabic calligraphy and communicate poetry, proverbs, and verses from the Quran. Their spirituality is literally written into the bones of this stunning building.
The Medina of Marrakech
All activity cumulates in the heart of Marrakech, the medina. The main square, Jemma el-Fna, is a chaotic cluster of stalls selling all kinds of typical Moroccan dishes in addition to fruits, vegetables, bread, and pastries. I was fairly warned by many people to be careful of eating there, but I was brave enough to try a freshly made smoothie and lived to tell the tale. There are also monkeys and snakes "dancing" in this plaza, just to add to the chaos.
When you enter the covered market of the medina, you step into an enormous marketplace, electric with activity. It won't lie; it's a bit intimidating, walking elbow to elbow with hundreds of tourists and locals alike, hearing the shouts of vendors and buyers in more languages than I could count. The sweet smell of pastries and honey, the metallic twinge coming from the butcher shop, and the complete overload of all my senses totally overwhelmed me. But it was a good feeling, the sweet anxiety of learning something new.
This labyrinth winds all around the old city for 12 long miles in the form of a maze. I spoke to one tourist who said he had been there in the 80's, when the twists and turns of the medina were so dangerous that he had to enter with a guide who tied all the visitors' hands to one another like kids on class trips. It really goes to show you how constantly the world is changing, sometimes even for the better. Now, the medina is very safe and full of Moroccan-made products like leather, textiles, shoes, art, clothing, jewelry, lamps, yarn, spices, even shark eggs! And so much more. Some artisans even make the products right in front of you. It's truly a majestic place to explore.
A Moroccan Roadtrip: Day 1
We left Marrakech to begin our 3 day tour of various sites in central Morocco. We booked through a smaller company that allowed us to see plenty of things outside the city of Marrakech, guided by locals. On the first day, we passed through the Atlas Mountains and an Argan Coop. Argan oil is a special plant oil that grows mainly Morocco, making it incredibly rare. The oils are usually made by hand with kernels from the Argan tree, and are used for both culinary and cosmetic purposes, especially for moisturizing skin and hair.
Our next stop was to Ben Ait Haddou, an enchanting medieval city and UNESCO heritage site that transports you back in time. Its earthen clay architecture is beautifully preserved and the winding pathways, much like the medina of Marrakech, immerse you in the ancient fortress. Ben Ait Haddou has probably graced your TV screen at one point or another, since it is a popular filming location for films and shows like Prince of Persia, Gladiator, Game of Thrones, and many others. Even though the the wind was pushing me around like a schoolyard bully, the thing I noticed most here was how unexpectedly pretty the scenery was, a dozen shades of brown painted across the plateau to create a distinctly beautiful landscape.
And to end the night, a band played traditional music at our hotel during dinner, consisting of a drum circle and a few other instruments. As the crowd thinned out, the band invited us stragglers to join them. I am very untalented musically, so leaving my comfortable seat in the audience was pretty much my personal nightmare. But Moroccan hospitality doesn't take no for an answer, and the last thing I wanted to do was show any rudeness to our hosts. So I took the "krakebs" (like castanets), and tried to keep the beat as instructed. Then they invited us to choose songs, which ranged from American folk to 2000s pop to Billie Jean. Hearing Michael Jackson in an African drum circle is a sweet memory I won't forget anytime soon. It was also nice to get to know the local people and learn more about this beautiful country through their eyes.
A Moroccan Roadtrip: Day 2
Day 2 was a particularly scenic ride through the Dadès Gorges and the Todra Valley, as well as the river that runs through it. Again, I was simply astounded by how unexpectedly beautiful the color of dirt can be. We stopped for lunch just outside of Merzouga, a small town just outside the Sahara Desert, and bought scarves to protect ourselves from the sand, which ended up really coming in handy. Two young girls from the shop drew henna on our hands and wrote our names in the Amazigh language.
We left the family shop and drove a few hours further, speechlessly excited to enter the famous Sahara Desert. Unfortunately, the desert greeted us with a massive sandstorm. At least, to me it felt massive. Tiny particles of sand were hitting my little uncovered skin viciously, ingraining itself in my hair, my pockets, even my eyebrows! It felt like being stung or scratched by an invisible animal.
In what must have been a comical scene, we were rushed out of the vans and into sand-friendly vehicles, our tour guides shouting incomprehensible instructions in half a dozen languages over the roar of the wind. Through the limited visibility, our group was an indistinguishable blur of sunglasses and scarves. The vans bumped chaotically over the sand for a few minutes before arriving at the camp, which was a lovely facility of glamping tents. Once inside the tents, we were well-protected from the wind, even though it sounded like we could blow away at any moment.
A Moroccan Roadtrip: Day 3
I would shiver through a hundred sandstorms to see the beautiful Sahara Desert again. I've never seen anything so vast, so beautiful, or so pristinely wild. Once the storm subsided, we caught our first glimpse under the light of a full moon, with dromedaries-camels with just one hump, I learned-passing by us and casting long, mystical shadows in the frigid sand.
And then, the sunrise, a golden sun rising majestically over the horizon and casting a bright orange hue over the dunes. The energy, even with dozens of exhilarated tourists squealing over the views, was overwhelmingly peaceful and still.
Perhaps the highlight of the trip was enjoying views of the Sahara from about 2 meters high-on the back of a dromedary! We rode these beasts from the camp out of the desert, where we hopped back in the vans (a far inferior form of transportation), and returned to Marrakech.
Ouzoud Falls
Last but certainly not least, Ouzoud Falls, a lovely day trip from Marrakech. This waterfall is the tallest in Morocco, 330 feet high, and filled with a muddy brown water. For a euro, you can cross this chocolate river by rowboat. We also met some friendly local inhabitants, monkeys! They tend to hang out by the crest of the falls where tourists are gathered because unfortunately, they've learned to find food in bags, trash cans, and hands. Of course, it's not advisable to feed them for environmental reasons, but the ground is totally littered with peanuts sold by locals, and they are pretty intent to feed on them and beg for more, whether you want them to or not. While it was really cool to see wildlife up close, I still prefer to keep a respectful distance. (You can refer to my expression of pure fear in the second picture as evidence.)
Spring in Asturias
You know you live in a special place when returning from vacation is exciting rather than depressing. And I'm always excited to spend time in Asturias. There are so many hikes, mountains, beaches, rivers, and caves to explore, and the spring is especially beautiful, despite the nearly constant threat of rain. This spring, I explored some not-so-hidden gems of Asturias, including a cheese cave, where Cabrales cheese is stored during maturation. I also learned to ski at Fuentes de Invierno, and even gathered the courage to go down a red slope. (Successfully, I might add!) On the first warm day of the year, I went kayaking on the Río Sella, a scenic river near the school where I work. Also below are photos from hikes in Parque Natural de Somiedo and Sierra de Peña Mayor.
Picos de Europa
The absolute best hike of the spring deserves an honorable mention: my weekend trip to the western massif of the Picos de Europa. This hut-to-hut trip began in Covadonga, a valley town in the mountains and an important place for the Asturian people. I've spoken about the Asturian reverence for the mountains before, the love and respect for the Asturian landscape that represents a significant piece of their culture. If nature is their religion, then Covadonga is their church. And there is, in fact, a literal church. The Basilica of Covadonga, the pink limestone structure pictured below, is an important symbol of Asturias. I'm not religious, but the surrounding scenery is so picturesque, it's almost enough to make you feel something spiritual.
Perhaps a more important site is the Sanctuary of Covadonga, a small cave just above the basilica. The legend goes that the Virgin Mary appeared the King Pelayo and his troops in this cave. They were in battle with the Moors for control of Spain and preparing for an ambush. Mary allegedly blessed and protected the troops, who won the battle and set in motion the reconquest of what is now the united country of Spain. Nowadays, Mary, Our Lady of Covadonga, is honored by a chapel in that very cave. It is customary for those entering the mountains to light a candle and implore her for protection in the mountains. (It worked!)
Directly beneath the cave, there is a waterfall that lands in the river running through the village. Here you can find the Fuente de Siete Caños, or the Fountain of Seven Faucets, shown in the fourth photo below. This legend says that if you drink from all seven spigots without coming up for air, you will be married within the next year. (I did not attempt!)
Day 1: Covadonga - Vegarredonda
A chilly but successful day to our first refugio! It was a bit snowy, but luckily we arrived before the real fog set in.
Day 2: Vegarredonda - Vega de Ario
Overnight, there was a proper snowstorm, which meant trekking through quite a bit of snow to our next refugio, even though the temperatures weren't horribly cold. There were some steep climbs, some deep snow sometimes up to my knees, and even some crawling up using our hands. The scenery, however, was unbelievably beautiful, and the mountains are so perfectly untouched by humans. We enjoyed a difficult but worthwhile day.
Day 3: Vega de Ario - Covadonga Lakes
Compared to the previous day, our last day of hiking was much, much easier as we descended back towards our starting point. As you can see, no more snow! We really experienced all 4 seasons over a long weekend. In total, we walked 21.25 miles (34.2 km), and climbed 1,700 meters of total incline.
If you've stuck around to the end of this admittedly wordy post, I send you a virtual hug and many thanks for you interest and support. Here's to a great spring and wishing all who read an even better summer!
With love,
Julia
Comments