May Highlights: School's Out!
At the beginning of May, the city of Bilbao placed a huge Tour de France ad in front of city hall, which is just a few blocks from my house and smack dab in the middle of my morning commute. The race begins in Bilbao on July 1, which the poster advertises with the inclusion of a digital clock counting down the little remaining time. But as the bikes roll into the Basque Country, I'll be rolling out, which sort of makes that cheerful little clock a sobering reminder that my time here in Bilbao is coming to an end. (In 15 days, as the clock kindly reminded me this morning.)
When they set up that poster last month, I felt a pit in my stomach. How had time passed so quickly? Had I accomplished everything I wanted to? Had I made the most of my time here? When I arrived in September, the time in front of me felt infinite, and now it was literally diminishing before my eyes. With that in mind, I set out to finish strong, check things off the list, and most importantly, say goodbye.
Time on the Trails
Now that summer is here, I've squeezed in a few great hikes. These photos are from the trail to the Ojos del Diablo, "the devil's eyes", named for 2 stone archways towards the end of the path. It's located in the neighboring region of Cantabria and is actually part of the Camino del Norte, one of the routes of the Camino de Santiago. The views are absolutely gorgeous, with green cliffs all the way along the coast, unique rock formations reaching up through the clouds, and even some new four-legged friends.
This easy coastal hike is just north of Bilbao. From the beach town of Plentzia, it's a flat, scenic walk towards Sopelana beach, where I've been attempting to learn to surf.
San Mamés
In other news, I attended my first soccer game (excuse me, football). Bilbao Athletic Club and its home stadium San Mamés is an institution, and it seemed wrong to leave without experiencing all the hype at least once. (Plus, Ted Lasso makes the whole thing look pretty fun.) But I admit, I was skeptical. What could possibly happen over 90 minutes when the score usually ends up 0-0, or on a good day, a whopping 1-0? But wow, was I wrong! The constant motion of the game, the mesmerizing talent of the players, and the unexpected melodrama on and off the field made it easily the most entertaining sporting event I've ever watched. On top of that, the excitement and energy of the fans is infectious. They had me on my feet, sweating and screaming right along with them. (Although sometimes I didn't know why. Like I don't know the rules.)
Below are 2 videos:
1) Happy fans cheering
2) Angry fans rage-whistling. It sounded like we were being attacked by seagulls.
Anyway, I'm a soccer fan now!
Saint-Jean-de-Luz
I've obviously spoken a lot about the Basque Country of Spain, but did you know that the bordering part of France also identifies as Basque? This area is an easy day trip from Bilbao by bus, so I recently visited historic fishing village Saint-Jean-de-Luz. While there, I saw the military tower Fort Socoa, walked the Promenade Jacques Thibaud, and ate "Basque-style" macaroons from Maison Adam that can only be described as magical.
The town itself is so cute and has the lofty but charming energy of New England. The whole coastline, from the port to the promenade, is lined with charming wooden homes, painted white with bright colors to accent. The main boulevard, Rue Gambeta, is lined with shops, cafes, galleries, and lots of people enjoying the sunshine. Les Halles, a covered market in the town's historic center, is packed with locals and tourists alike shopping for fresh fish, baked goods, cheese, and produce. I grabbed my lunch inside and ate it on the front steps, where I received several greetings of "bon appétit, mademoiselle." Whether they were teasing me or genuinely wishing me a pleasant lunch, I don't know and don't care.
Also in this area is the Church of St. John the Baptist, where the Sun King, French monarch Louis XIV, married Maria Theresa of Spain in 1660. This strategic match was meant to ease tension between the feuding nations of Spain and France. In fact, legend has it that the door of the church the newlyweds exited from was sealed off to symbolize the end of troubles between the 2 countries. Others believe the King requested it to be bricked over so that no one else could mimic his own ceremony. And skeptics say it was simply a product of the church's renovations, but that's not nearly as fun. Near the hustle and bustle of Place Louis XIV, the town's main plaza, is Maison Louis XIV and Maison de l'Infante, grey bricked houses which famously housed the royal couple in the days preceding their wedding.
You can take the girl out of Spain, but apparently Spain will follow her. Coincidentally, Saint-Jean-de-Luz was celebrating their annual Festival Andalou, which meant free flamenco shows in the streets. Flamenco is not only a style of music and dance; it is an incredibly intimate method of storytelling. It is meant to convey the most intense emotions; most commonly grief, rage, and passion. It also has a long and twisted history, beginning as the "detested" music of gypsies and the oppressed lower class of Andalucía. Flamenco was actually first appreciated by foreigners before it moved to urban centers like Madrid, where the upper-class slowly began to appreciate it for the art form (and cash cow) that it was. This is all to say that usually, one can feel the frustration and sorrow of an ostracized people in each clap of the hands and strum of the guitar. And that is so incredibly powerful. It is what makes flamenco unique and beautiful.
But what made this impromptu performance different was the heartfelt demonstration of a separate emotion altogether: joy. The musicians and dancers were mostly older people, all of which were grinning the entire time. They were having fun. The music was influenced by Latin and Caribbean sounds, making for a more upbeat experience. It definitely wasn't the most technical concert. It was far from the best dancers. But I think it was my favorite to date. Dance, especially cultural dance, is much more than technicalities and footwork. Its purpose, I believe, is to feel and express all the emotions, good and bad. It helps us to feel and experience this life more deeply. And perhaps most importantly, it connects human beings on a simple, primal level. If you take a glance at the photos below, I think you'll agree that the sweet bliss and joy of their subjects is proof of that.
Side note: The gentleman in the second picture danced to every single song for over an hour without a break. It was 85 degrees out and he never stopped or even looked tired. If a song started and he was the only one on the dance floor, he would yell, "venga! baila!" and adamantly pull his compañeros out of the shade one by one.
London
It's London, baby! I spent a fabulous weekend in the UK's cultural epicenter. While I expected to have a good time, I didn't expect to enjoy the general ambience as much as I did. It's the only major city I've been to that I could actually see myself living in. Coincidentally, the coronation of King Charles was the same weekend. I honestly didn't plan for that to happen, and a bolt of panic shot through me when I realized the overlap. I imagined horrendous crowds and closures of all the touristy things I wanted to do. Luckily, the festivities had little impact on my plans other than a few annoying bus cancellations. And while the concept of a monarchy is somewhat strange to me, I was in London for the coronation of a king! It's a moment in history, silly or not. Streets were decked out with the British flag and signs of well wishes for the new king and queen. Loyal Brits camped out shoulder to shoulder near Buckingham Palace, anxiously waiting to catch a glimpse of Charles and Camilla. Their excitement was cute and contagious; all of London seemed to be celebrating. However, some local girls at a pub informed me that the Queen's funeral was "more fun" and that there had been "more to see". Seems macabre, but I guess I'll keep that in mind for next time?
A boat tour down the River Thames showcased some of London's most iconic spots, including the London Eye, Tower Bridge, the Palace of Westminster, Big Ben, and Shakespeare's Globe. We also saw the skyscrapers that make up the city's skyline, such as the Shard, the Gherkin, the Cheesegrater, and the Walkie Talkie. These are very silly names for very cool, ultra-modern buildings. And so many more are currently under construction in this ever-growing hub. While parts of London are quite old, the city also carries a distinct air of urbanism and innovation, making it a delightfully exciting visit. Also nearby is Westminster Abbey, which was an absolute zoo of eager tourists, sharp-dressed journalists, and ominous black SUVs due to the coronation preparations for the following day.
Our boat dropped us off near the Tower of London, a historic fortress known for its indomitable strength and security. Ironically, it has been used to keep things both in and out. During times of rebellion and turmoil, the castle protected the royal family and to this day, the Tower houses the Crown Jewels. Yet it is haunted by a morbid history of tortured and executed prisoners, namely the Crown's fiercest enemies. However, the dark energy of London's ghosts is alleviated by the picturesque neighborhood that has built up around it.
After a full and exquisitely exhausting Day 1, we enjoyed a rare bit of sunshine in Kensington Gardens and Hyde Park.
In the west end of London lies the charming neighborhood of Notting Hill, dotted with colorful brick homes and adorable shops selling records, old books, and even older clothes. It is pretty in a very simple way, with perfectly landscaped yards and gardens. Also in this friendly bit of London is the famed Portobello Road Market, which I think a young Hugh Grant described best: "from break of day, hundreds of stalls appear out of nowhere, filling Portobello Road right up to Notting Hill Gate. And thousands of people buy millions of antiques, some genuine...and some not so genuine." Of the neighborhoods I visited, this was certainly my favorite. If only I were Julia Roberts and could have stayed "indefinitely."
Camden Market is also a great scene, but it has a distinctly different vibe. The energy is more grunge, and the neighborhood is an eclectic mix of styles and subcultures. Flea market stalls give way to retro shops and retail stores. Just around the corner, sleek waterbuses and floating bookshops float down Regent's Canal.
There is also a vast variety of food options, of which we tried as much as we could stomach! (See below: a traditional English breakfast, fish and chips, buffalo chicken, and the biggest donut I've ever seen.)
A trip to London would not be complete without visiting Soho, the main district of London for international food, top-tier entertainment, and fantastic nightlife. Coronation parties spilled out of the pubs and onto the brick streets, where food from all over the world was being served in the trendiest restaurants and the most hidden dives. The West End theater productions are a notable pull to this area as well. I saw Les Miserables, which was absolutely amazing and featured the most incredible vocal talent.
Spain has little diversity, especially compared to a multicultural city like London. And being there made me realize how much I miss it. I miss seeing different kinds of faces, hearing different languages, and eating different food. I miss blending in, not because everyone looks alike but because everyone looks different. And while this is significantly less important, I really miss spicy food! (My tolerance for spice has dropped dramatically since moving to Spain, and I may have shed a few tears over a bowl of Thai curry.) I can't emphasize enough how phenomenal the food I had in London was, especially the Malaysian dish pictured below.
The day after the coronation, I stopped at Buckingham Palace to see the Changing of the Guard. The King's Guard (making very brave fashion choices, by the way), marched toward the palace accompanied by marching band music. They stood at attention inside the Palace gates, instruments poised. I fully expected a solemn chorus of God Save the King, but instead got a 30 minute concert of Michael Bublé and Bonnie Tyler instead!
School's Out!
Back in Bilbao, I completed my first year of teaching. I learned so, so much from the students and teachers at IES Muskiz, and am incredibly grateful for the grace and guidance I received there. I won't sugarcoat it; it was a very hard year. My academic background is not in education, and I don't even really like kids! I took this job not only for the opportunity to travel and live abroad, but also because education plays a huge role in public health and wellness, my true calling. It challenged me in ways I didn't know I could be challenged and exposed me to the harsh reality of how little I know and how much I still have to learn. Working with high schoolers, the bad days felt like rock bottom, but the good days felt like the highest of highs.
So I'll focus on the good days. The days when kids yelled my name down the hallways to show me a good grade they received. The days they voluntarily spoke English with me, seeing language not as a class but as a skill they could use to connect with people. The days I taught them how to country music line dance. (All my students can now proudly step and turn their way through Cotton Eye Joe and Any Man of Mine.)
It is a great responsibility to represent one's country and language. It is an even greater responsibility to teach it. Every time I heard "Julia-isms" or an American "r" sound work their way into my students' speech, I would simultaneously cringe and smile. What a terrifying concept, to know that your words and actions are being mimicked and modeled, and that you will have an inevitable impact, good or bad, on the people around you. For me, it made each mistake and small victory weigh significantly more. As humans, we all possess a certain power over one another, and it is up to us to use that power for good. While I've made more than my fair share of mistakes this year, I certainly hope that the impact I made in my classes was good. If I did, it makes it a bit easier to say goodbye.
Cheers to a great May and wishing all who read an even better June!
Agur,
Julia
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