Behind the Smiles: My Life in Thailand
The Land of Smiles
Hi all!
I'm writing to you now from Thailand, the Land of Smiles, where I'll be staying until September 2025 with a Fulbright English Teaching Assistant Grant. I've had many, many adventures since I started last September, and I've learned a lot of hard lessons, too. Enjoy!
Bangkok
My first introduction to Thailand was a month-long stay in Bangkok for Fulbright Orientation. This was meant to be somewhat of a "soft launch" into the chaos of Southeast Asia, a baby step into a world of new and unfamiliar sights, sounds, and smells. We heard from speakers about Thai culture and lifestyle, politics, current events, and teaching pedagogy. We also took an intensive Thai language class that was equal parts valuable and impossible. Why did I choose a country with a tonal language? Like any major city, Bangkok is incredibly distinct from the rest of the country. There is a greater level of infrastructure than in rural areas, more English speakers, and a greater level of diversity. Along with the most incredible Thai food, which I'll get to later, you can find culinary offerings from all over Asia and even some decent "western" options. Our hotel had arctic AC, a gorgeous pool, and huge buffets for breakfast and lunch. It was all this pampering that made our first few weeks in a shockingly new environment rather painless and easy.
On the other hand, Bangkok exists at a level of overstimulation that made my baby steps feel more like those of a caffeinated kindergartener. The constant level of heat, noise, traffic, pollution, and mysterious, unidentified smells is a lot to contend with on top of your regularly scheduled culture shocks! And while I thoroughly enjoyed my time temple-hopping, visiting the most extravagant shopping malls, and dancing zumba in the Lumphini Park, I was very ready to leave for my final destination by the end of the month.
My favorite of Bangkok's redeeming qualities is definitely the markets! The market culture throughout Thailand is unmatched, with incredible food, clothes, crafts, and most importantly, prices. You'll find markets morning, nights, and weekends in nearly every Thai community, but those in Bangkok are particularly special. Pictured below are a few of my favorites! First, Chatuchak weekend market, the largest market in Thailand with more than 15,000 stalls and 11,000 vendors. I spent 4 hours there and still didn't see it all! Another unique market is Khlong Lat Mayom Floating Market, where products are sold on little boats along the canal in addition to a bustling market on the dock just above it. Back toward the city's center, I explored Patpong Night Market, which had so much amazing food for an affordable dinner. If you're brave, you can sample crickets, crocodile meat, and cockroaches! Lastly, Bangkok's Chinatown neighborhood always has unique and authentic Chinese food, but I was lucky enough to be in town during their annual vegetarian festival, and food stalls lined the main street for several blocks.
Bangkok was also where I got my first taste of the Buddhist culture here in Thailand. More than 90% of the population is Buddhist, and most practice Theravada Buddhism, the oldest school of Buddhism that is most common in Southeast Asia. This faith has been actively woven into the fabric of the country for centuries, leaving a profound and lasting impact on the culture, even for those not actively practicing. It is very common to see figures of the Buddha on car dashboards, hanging from rear views, or as the pendant of a necklace. A few of my favorite lunch spots have small Buddha statues in the decor, complete with offerings of soda and fruit. Similarly to the way some Christians don a small cross around their neck, Thais keep symbols of the Buddha close to ask for protection, blessings, good luck, and spiritual guidance.
Of course, the largest expression of the Buddhist faith is the temple, or wat. Big or small, these buildings serve as focal points of the community, a place to gather and celebrate. And while the dress code is strict-no knees, shoulders, or shoes allowed-I haven't found the temples here to be a solemn or serious place. People pray and meditate, heads bent reverently, right alongside those posing for photos near the altar while others carry on friendly chats. I expected this from tourists, but was quite surprised to observe this norm amongst Thai visitors as well. Personally, I like the friendly and laid back nature of the Thai Buddhist temples. I have always found a friendly face and a peaceful moment within them. As a tourist, I'm even more impressed by their sheer size and intricate designs. They are works of art in their own right, uniquely and intentionally constructed with so much color and light, creating a space that intentionally draws your attention to the present moment.
Pictured below:
The Grand Palace, the former royal residence, and the Temple of the Emerald Buddha
Wat Arun, an architectural marvel decorated with colorful Chinese porcelain.
Wat Pho, the Temple of the Reclining Buddha
Erawan National Park
Erawan National Park was the perfect day trip escape from the city, and my first glimpse of Thailand's pristine natural landscape. I hiked up a trail around 7 levels of stunning waterfalls, then cooled off with a swim on my way down. Warning: the fish do bite! They're harmless, but it will scare the bejesus out of you and make the lifeguards laugh at your expense...
Lamphun
After a month of orientation, our cohort went our separate ways to start our teaching placements across the country. I was placed in Lamphun, a provincial city about 45 minutes away from Chiang Mai, the country's second-largest city. For me, it's a near-perfect placement. Living in a smaller community gives me a chance to live a more authentic experience and make stronger connections to the community, while still having access to a big city. Pictured below are some highlights of my first few months exploring Lamphun, including the night I accidentally joined a line-dancing session, a yoga class-turned-photoshoot, a well-dressed vendor at the Friday night market, a traditional Thai wedding, and my favorite local temple.
The beautiful lanterns, flowers, and candles are part of Loy Krathong, a traditional Thai celebration celebrated on the full moon of the 12th Lunar Month. Loy means "float" and Krathong refers to the decorative baskets that are made of banana leaves, flowers, incense, candles, etc. The krathongs are made or bought, and then lit and sent down the river to pay respect to the river goddess. It's a touching demonstration of gratitude for water and the natural world, as well as a ritual that allows participants to let go of negative energy or grievances. Lanterns are also lit and sent into the sky, and smaller versions are hung up at temples as seen below. It is customary to write down a wish for yourself or others on the lantern, or simply the names of everyone you wish to send love and luck to, before hanging it up. The school and town celebrated with parades, beauty pageants, traditional dances, and fireworks.
Chiang Mai
The city of Chiang Mai is just 45 minutes away from my home, but first you have to brave the songthaew ride to get there. A songthaew is basically a pickup truck with a lengthy bed and benches, covered by a roof. Little breeze. No AC. As you can see from the first picture, it can get pretty crowded, and the last to arrive hangs off the back like a trolley conductor. But for 30 baht (93 cents) what more can you ask for?
Chiang Mai is a bustling city set on the Ping River with more great food, markets, and temples. Similar to Bangkok, I suppose, but much less hectic and a good bit cleaner. Pictured below: the streets of Chiang Mai and Wat Chedi Luang, one of Chiang Mai's oldest and most significant temples.
Monk's Trail Hike
From the outskirts of Chiang Mai city, there's a hike called Monk's Trail, called so because it leads to Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, a famously sacred temple atop Suthep Mountain. Monks and pilgrims walked this trail many times to arrive at the renowned temple, which is no small feat in this heat! Luckily, the trail winds through a thick, shady forest , opening up a bit halfway through the hike when arriving at Wat Pha Lat, an ancient monastery tucked amongst the forest and the waterfalls, accessible only on foot. With its lush background, breathtaking views, and quiet ambience, it is possibly my favorite place in Thailand. It is easy to believe that the Buddhists of long ago felt an enlightened, sacred presence in this place, surrounded by such natural beauty.
Doi Inthanon
A must-do day trip from Chiang Mai is Doi Inthanon, the highest point in Thailand. This mountain measures 2,565 meters above sea level and is part of the Himalayan Mountain Range. While hiking here, I enjoyed a much-needed reprieve from the heat, even wearing a sweatshirt for part of the day! At the mountain's highest point, there is a monument dedicated to King Inthawichayanon, the last king of the Lanna Kingdom (now Thailand), for whom the mountain is named. His bones are said to be inside of the monument (first picture).
Another royal tribute can be seen in the pagodas pictured below, dedicated to the former King and Queen of Thailand, the parents of the current king. The monarchy is an extremely significant institution in Thailand, and the King and Queen honored by these pagodas were very revered in their time. Their pagodas are set in beautiful gardens with panoramic views over the national park.
Mae Hong Son
On a long weekend, I visited Mae Hong Son, a mountainous province known for its fascinating natural landscapes, a bit of a haven for crunchy backpackers. We kayaked through majestic caves, catching glimpses of bats and spiders that made me never want to go outside again. We cooled off in some local waterfalls, hiked around Pai Canyon, and sipped smoothies while looking over lush green rice fields. This less-visited area of Thailand is a nature-lover's dream!
Food
After 2 years in spiceless Europe, I knew I wanted, no, needed, to eat well in whatever country I ended up in next. I definitely hit the mark with Thailand. The cuisine differs greatly depending on the region, but some staples like pad thai,papaya salad, and pork satay can be found anywhere. My absolute favorite food is Khao Soi, a northern Thai specialty made of coconut milk curry, egg noodles, meat, and toppings like pickled greens, red onion, shallots, lime, and chili flakes. Almost all the Thai words I know happen to be food-related, including the most important phrase "ped nit-noy", which means "only a little spicy please!"
Behind the Smile
Yes, I can confirm that Thailand is the Land of Smiles. If you made it to the end of this post, you can see that I have so many reasons to smile every day, even if it's just a really good meal or a refreshing cup of tea. But the difference between visiting a country and living in it is in knowing a country's soul rather than just its face, in seeing not only the smile, but also knowing why the smile exists. Thailand is a beautiful country, but it is not one without problems.
Part 1: Colonization
Part of the reason I chose Thailand was because it was never conquered by a European country, and I was curious as to how a lack of western influence shaped Thailand into the country it is today. I've learned that Thailand's history and culture are rich and sacred to the Thai people. Which is why it breaks my heart to see the way tourism in Thailand often resembles colonization in a 21st century costume. Where western tourists see a natural paradise to smoke a little weed and do yoga, I see expat communities that have completely conquered and eliminated the Thainess out of Thailand. There is a "hakuna matata" attitude about these people that is too ignorant to see how their actions harm the community around them. They think they are letting loose, when really they are part of the problem. I've seen countless folks try to enter sacred temples in bikini tops. There are "missionaries" living in my building whose goal is not to learn about Buddhism, but to convert devout Buddhists to Christianity. (Never mind that their real need is drinkable tap water and accessible healthcare...) Then there are the dangerous activities, like elephant riding and sex trafficking, contributing to the tragic exploitation of Thailand's most vulnerable.
I'm not saying that you shouldn't visit Thailand. If anything, I just wrote a 3 page ad for it. But when you come, know your privilege. Dress appropriately, be kind to locals, and spend your money ethically and responsibly. Above all, remember that the people in this country are not side characters in your vacation story. You are the guest in their country, and it is really quite easy to be a good guest.
Part 2: My Most Treasured Possession
Another valid reason to hate the disrespectful tourists is because sometimes they rent motorbikes without licenses and run you off the road, breaking 2 bones and tearing your meniscus and ACL.
If that sounds super specific, that's because I was hit by what can only be described as a waste of skin in early December who did this to me. I was in a leg cast for 6 weeks while I waited for the bone and meniscus to heal, then went on to have surgery for an ACL repair. This week is the first week I could walk without crutches, and I'm currently enduring grueling physical therapy every day on top of a full-time job. It has always been my greatest fear to be unwell, injured, ill. Limited. My health is the most important thing in the world to me. And to lose it, however temporarily, in a developing country, made it that much harder to endure.
Thailand lacks basic accessibility features like ramps, elevators, and sidewalks in most areas, including mine. The closest first floor bathroom to my classroom was a 10 minute walk (with crutches). The 5 steps to my first floor classroom were next to the handwashing sink and wet, so I had to carefully tread through an unsteady dirt path instead. Most hotels in Chiang Mai don't have elevators, and those that do are always more expensive.
I was treated at a private hospital in Chiang Mai, a top-tier hospital, even by American standards. I felt that the staff was exceptional at their individual jobs. The surgeon operated well. The physical therapists were knowledgeable and helpful. The nurses were competent and patient. However, the amount of self-advocacy the process required bordered on ludicrous. It just seemed like none of the departments were talking to each other. Nobody confirmed that things had gone well until 24 hours after the surgery. They tried to discharge me without physical therapy, then tried to sell me an ice pack when I asked to see a PT. This lack of communication and patient advocacy is not specific to Thailand, but rather a reflection of healthcare as a whole, a critical and dangerous issue that I luckily had the awareness and assertiveness to deal with, but that many, through no fault of their own, don't.
Now that I'm healing, I can look back at the past few months and reflect on the reality of the situation. Because the fact is, I was able to go to the nicest private hospital in Chiang Mai. Most Thais are doomed to the public system, which I did visit twice and found to be the stuff of nightmares. My boyfriend extended his trip 2 more months to help me cope and recover, working online with a 6 hour time difference and caring for me and my home every spare minute. Most people don't have that kind of privilege or flexibility, or even that kind of generous, kind-hearted, and forgiving partner. In what I hope will be the hardest chapter of my life, I had love and support coming from 3 continents. All in all, I am a very lucky woman.
Part 3: Appearance Culture
In Thailand, appearances are of paramount importance. It manifests in so many aspects of the culture. For example, students are expected to follow dress code precisely, right down to the massive, cheerleader-style bows in their hair. Respect and reverence, especially toward older people, is shown by bowing your head as you walk by, or by greeting those around you with a small bow called a "wai". Often, appearance culture has a positive impact. After all, what's wrong with consistently showing up as your best self?
But I've found some truly ugly manifestations of appearance culture as well. The most obvious example is beauty standards. Ads for beauty products are not exactly diverse, and most products have some kind of skin whitener in it. Another example: I was invited to "take a day off" while in the leg cast if there were school events where parents, potential students, etc. were invited, even though all the other foreign teachers were required to go. While judging English competitions, I was told not to give any scores below an 80 in order to help the students "save face", even though the scores were private. I've been asked to teach language concepts leaps and bounds ahead of the students' skill level so that the school could tout the fact that they taught an advanced curriculum. They even encouraged cheating on exams so that the grades would be higher.
This has been hard for me to wrap my mind around. How can I be a less valuable English teacher now? My leg is broken, not my mouth or my mind. How can lying to students about their performance help them to improve? What is the point of teaching advanced grammar to students who still don't know the numbers? What good does it do to tell a child that being different is wrong, and that missing class is better than sitting through it without makeup?
All in all, this is a gentle, if not slightly dramatic, reminder that the beautiful, exotic places from Instagram are not just vacation destinations. They are someone's home and culture. They are flawed and complex and messy and spectacular. And to treat them as anything less, however pretty in appearance, would be a huge disservice to their remarkable value.
Cheers to getting through the winter and wishing all who read an even better spring.
Love,
Julia
Comments