Autumn in Asturias: Spain's Natural Paradise
If you ask a Spaniard where the best part of Spain is, you will get the same answer 9 times out of 10: Asturias. Even those fiercely prideful of their own region surrender the title of "el paraíso natural" to my new home. And paradise is hardly an exaggeration. The mountains, beaches, trails, fishing villages, and charming cities make Asturias a distinctly beautiful and interesting place to live.
I recently started teaching at a new school in Arriondas, a small town known for its famous canoeing competition down the Río Sella, the picturesque river that winds past my school. On a clear day (though there are very few of those), you can see the Picos de Europa, the largest mountain range in Asturias. All this makes Arriondas a very pleasant place to spend my weekdays. I'm assisting in classes from 5th grade through high school sophomores. Although it's a public school, I'm working within a bilingual program, so the students are quite advanced and I really enjoy working with them. All in all, I'm quite lucky to be living and working in such a beautiful place, and I'm quite excited to see more and more of it.
Even though it means 2 hours of commuting on the bus every day, I decided to live in Oviedo. I visited this charming city last year on my birthday and felt in my bones that it would be my next home. Although it is the largest city in the region, it feels much more like a very big town, which suits me. I love to visit big cities, but I prefer the character and tranquility of smaller ones. (This makes Oviedo perfect since only Spaniards and Vicky Cristina Barcelona fans really know it exists.) Most importantly, it has easy public transport access to the nature Asturias is known for. It's an old city that is young at heart, mostly older people and families in addition to a large university, which brings in students from all over Spain and a large ERASMUS community as well. My recent days have mostly been filled with hiking trails, beach days, and traditional Asturian meats, cheeses, and cider. Below: highlights from recent hikes on Ruta de las Xanas, Foces de Río Pendón, and Embalse de los Alfilorios.
Picos de Europa
I read this once in a book of Basque mythology by Mariana Monteiro: "It is a recognized fact that the people inhabiting mountainous countries are all, more or less, given to believe in the marvellous or the supernatural, because nature presents herself in those lands under forms of greater beauty and grandeur, and thus offers to the imagination of the simple dwellers a more free scope for the marvellous." I quote her simply because I can't possibly express the adoration Asturians have for the mountains in a more perfect way. The largest mountains in the area, the Picos de Europa, almost seem to command a certain reverence from those of us who are lucky enough to pass through them, and their beauty certainly elevates the capabilities of one's body and imagination.
Additionally, the Picos de Europa hold a large historical significance. These incredible mountains acted as a natural protective barrier from the invading Moors, and the Lagos de Covadonga (lakes pictured below) is the alleged site of the Battle of Covadonga, in which the Christians began their reconquest of what would eventually became Spain. This history of shelteredness has influenced the Asturian culture of today, even in small ways. There is a cultural contrast and pride in the region that can be traced back to the mountains and the lovely people who dwell among them.
Within the Picos de Europa is a network of refuges, bare bones huts for overnight hikers. There's no electricity or running water, but this compensated for tenfold by astonishing views and a warm homemade meal. Before the refuges closed for the winter season, I did an overnight trek to Vega de Ario, starting at the famous Covadonga Lakes and finishing the night overlooking snowy peaks. Looking over this view, it's easy to understand the nearly religious hold that the mountains have on the people here. I admit, I've become a front-pew participant myself!
Barcelona & Montserrat
During a holiday weekend in early November, I took the opportunity to revisit Barcelona. I've been there several times already and even spent part of the summer in the hills of Cataluña. But Barcelona is such a vibrant international city that I really believe you could live most of your life there and still not take advantage of all there is to see and do. For example, I'd yet to visit Montserrat, a national park which has been on my list for a while. This particular mountain range has semi-rounded rock formations, giving it an extraterrestrial appearance. I did my first hike just a few miles from the base to the resort village about 3 miles up, then climbed to the highest peak, St. Jeroni (1,238 m) the following day. The village itself is quite overpriced and touristy, but once you get up into the mountains and the more difficult trails, you can truly appreciate the breathtaking scenery (even in a windstorm).
Back in Barcelona, I visited the Picasso Museum, which I found a bit underwhelming after such a beautiful day in the mountains. (I'm sorry but I can only read so much into squiggly lines!) I got an amazing salad from my Honest Greens, visited a few friends and, perhaps most momentously, tried my first Guinness at an Irish pub near Sagrada Familia.
Cheers to a great autumn and wishing all who read a happy holiday season!
With love,
Julia
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